Samtskhe-Javakheti

Samtskhe-Javakheti is a highly interesting region of Georgia, also known as the cradle of Georgian culture.

Due to its special geographical location, Samtskhe-Javakheti was able to establish cultural and economic relations with neighbouring countries very early on and has often played a key role in Georgia's domestic and foreign policy.

For a long time, it was forgotten, but with the country's independence the region is slowly coming to the fore. 

Historically and culturally, Samtskhe-Javakheti is the most diverse region in Georgia. It was created in 1995 and comprises three historical-geographical regions: Meskheti, Javakheti and Tori, and is located in the southern part of the country, bordering both Turkey and Armenia.

General information

Surface area: 6,412.9 km2
Population: 160,504
Capital: Akhaltsikhe, population: 21,000

Name and structure of the administrative region

Samtskhe and Javakheti were two separate regions of Georgia with a similar history, and were only united into one administrative region in 1995 by decree of the Georgian President.

Cultural and natural highlights

Samtskhe-Javakheti is incredibly rich in historical and cultural monuments and the region is also known as the 'Cradle of Georgian Culture'. The region is home to numerous castles and fortresses, medieval frescoed churches and legendary cave cities.

The region also has a lot to offer in terms of scenery. There are beautiful lakes, balneological and climatic spas, a ski resort, numerous mineral springs and national parks.

Cultural monuments

1. Rabati Castle
2. Khertwisi Fortress
3. Atskuri fortress
4. Vardsia Cave City
5. Vanis Kvabebi Cave Monastery
6. Zarzma Monastery
7. Sapara Monastery
8. Timotesubani Monastery
9. Green Monastery
10. Tmogwi Fortress

Scenic highlights

1. Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park
2. Javakheti National Park
3. Paravani Lake
4. Saghamo Lake
5. Lake Tabatskuri

Spas

1. Abastumani
2. Borjomi
3. Bakuriani

Traditions and festivals

Samtskhe-Javakheti is a multicultural region where Georgians, Armenians, Jews, Greeks and Duchoborgs from Russia have lived together for centuries. Over time, rituals and customs have blended, but differences can still be seen in some common holidays, such as New Year.

Georgian Muslims from the region bring a sheep into the house on New Year's Eve as a sign of fertility and multiplication. Instead of wine, they serve grapes or another juice.

Ethnic Armenians celebrate Mandz-aleluia on New Year's Eve, when children go to houses, knock on doors, sing and receive sweets from their hosts.

Armenians celebrate the blessing of the pomegranate on 31 December. Families go to church, take a pomegranate and have it blessed by the priest during the liturgy as a sign that every day of the year will be as fruitful for the family as the pomegranate itself.

On the Jewish New Year, ethnic Jews go to the synagogue and spend the evening praying.

In Georgian families, grandfather and grandson wear national costumes and bless the house and the whole family in the evening. Symbolically, the grandfather represents the past and the grandson the future.

A religious minority, the Duchoborze from Russia, set the table with knitted cloths. They put mixed Russian and Georgian dishes on the table and wait for the New Year. 

General festivals in the region

Aspindsoba

Aspindsoba folk festival is very popular in the region. It is celebrated every year on 20 April to commemorate a very important Georgian victory over Ottoman troops in 1770.

Shotaoba

Shota Rustaveli, the creator of the Georgian national epic "The Warrior in the Skin of a Tiger", came from the Samtskhe-Javakheti region and the Shotaoba festival was established in the 20th century. On this day, poems are recited and a concert is held in honour of the 13th century national poet.

Why are there so many different ethnic groups in the region?

Historically, both Samtskhe and Javakheti were populated by ethnic Georgians, but when the Ottomans conquered both provinces in the 16th century, they settled Turks, who soon became the majority. At the same time, Jews from other areas were invited to live in the region to stimulate trade.

In the mid-19th century, during the Russo-Turkish wars, Russia decided to settle Armenians and some Greeks from Turkey in the region. Especially after the genocide of 1915, thousands of Armenians came to Georgia as refugees, most of whom settled in Samtskhe-Javakheti.

Tsarist Russia needed to colonise its newly acquired territories in Georgia, on the border with Turkey, with people who were skilled craftsmen, could work the land and, above all, posed no threat to the Tsarist Empire. In addition to Armenians and Greeks, these pacifists included members of the Duchoborzi religious minority and war resisters from Ukraine and Poland.

Later, during the Second World War, Turkey sided with the Wehrmacht, so Stalin resettled all Turkish families in the region and nationalised their property. 

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, many Jews, Greeks, Ukrainians and Poles left the region due to the difficult economic situation in Georgia and returned to their original homelands.

The current population of the region is about 50% Georgian, 48% Armenian and 2% of other nationalities.

Agriculture, livestock and fishing

Agriculture

The average altitude in Samtskhe-Javakheti is about 1500 metres above sea level. Winter is very long and there are few warm days, so it is not easy to grow anything in these conditions. However, the region had endemic varieties of wheat, 'Dika' and red wheat 'Tsiteli Doli', which were very resistant to cold. The harvest was sufficient for the local people and they could sell the wheat or exchange it for other foodstuffs. During the Soviet era, however, the harvest was not sufficient for the collective farm and the endemic cereals were replaced by potatoes, beetroot, carrots and other things that ripen underground and can be produced in large quantities.

In recent years, ancient endemic cereals have become popular again and are being cultivated in the region.

Livestock

Large pastures, rolling hills, little forest and plenty of water were ideal for livestock farming. Cattle are the main livestock, but sheep are also kept in the region.

Fishing

There are several lakes in Samtskhe-Javakheti where fishing is practised. Georgia's largest lake, Paravani, with a surface area of 38 square kilometres, is also located in the region.

Cuisine

Livestock farming is very common in Samtskhe-Javakheti, so dairy products play an important role in the regional cuisine, and there is also a long tradition of cereal farming in the region, so bakery products are an important part of the regional gastronomy. In general, dishes in Samtskhe-Javakheti look relatively simple, but to prepare them you need a lot of experience, the right ingredients and, in some cases, real stone ovens, which are mainly found only in the region.

Here are the most popular specialities from the region:

1. Meskhuri Qada - a particularly tasty bread made with puff pastry in a special stone oven.
2. Makarlama - dough cut into small strips, boiled in salted water, sautéed with a little walnut and onion, mixed with cheese. Often eaten as a main course.
3. Meskhuri (apokhtis) Khinkali - small (pelmeni size) dumplings filled with diced, dried/smoked goose meat. Can also be made with beef or lamb and then fried with onions and garlic, served with homemade yoghurt.
4. Titiani - Regional thick bread baked in a stone oven in the shape of a ring with a wide opening in the middle. 
5. Tutmadschi - Small and thinly sliced flat bread dough cooked in water with yoghurt. Mixed with small fried flatbread rolls.

6. Tenili - A high-fat cheese made mostly from cow's milk, but also from sheep's milk. The cheese is pulled into thin strands by hand and has a special appearance, shape and great flavour, but the production requires a lot of knowledge, physical strength and a lot of time.

7. Lukhumi - small egg-shaped delicious pastry, deep-fried in clarified butter. Several are prepared and eaten with honey or blueberry jam.

Interesting to know

Highest vineyards

In Samtskhe-Javakheti there are special grape varieties that can survive the cold winter. They grow between 900 and 1700 metres above sea level and manage to ripen well. These autochthonous grape varieties were threatened with extinction because they were no longer cultivated during the Soviet era, but they are now being cultivated again. In total, there are around 80 different grape varieties in the region, the most popular of which are Samariobo, Akhaltsikhuri Tetri, Kharistvala, Khizabavruli etc.

Endemic wheat varieties

In the region there is also an ancient endemic wheat variety of very high quality: "Dika" and "Tsiteli Doli". Wheat varieties are cold and disease resistant and do not require chemical treatment.

Coldest region in Georgia

At Lake Karzachi, on the border with Turkey, temperatures fall to minus 40, which is very unusual for Georgia.

Mineral Resources

Samtskhe-Javakheti is known for its many valuable mineral resources. There are mines of: Bentonite, tuff, diatomite, peat, basalt, brown coal, agate, andesite, obsidian and pumice. There are also many mineral springs in the region.

Edible snails

Samtskhe-Javakheti is the only region in Georgia where snails are eaten. There is a special species called "Meskhetian snails". This type of snail, and the tradition of eating snails in general, was brought to the region by the Franciscans from Europe in the 16th century. 

History of Samtskhe-Javakheti

The historical name of the region is Meskheti and the first written mention of the region is by the Greek historian Strabo in the 1st century BC.

Meskheti itself was part of the Kingdom of Kartli, also known as Iberia, and included the areas of Javakheti, Kola, Artaan, Erusheti, Tao, Klardzheti, Lazeti, Speri, Tortuni, Basiani, etc. Most of these villages are now in Turkey.

The area of Meskheti was almost half the size of today's Georgia, so the region played an important role for the whole country.

The "Bagrationi" royal dynasty, which ruled the country for 1000 years until the beginning of the 19th century, also came from the region.

Meskheti was ruled by the Georgian princely family, the Jakeli, who were related to the Georgian kings by marriage and had great influence over the whole kingdom.

After the Mongol invasions at the end of the 13th century, the princes of Meskheti were given the title 'Atabegi' and their territory was called 'Samtskhe-Saatabago'.

In the 16th century, the entire territory of Samtskhe-Saatabago fell into Ottoman hands, but continued to be ruled by the Islamised members of the Jakeli family.

Over the centuries, there were several attempts to reincorporate the region into Georgia, which succeeded on a number of occasions with brief interruptions, but by and large the region remained part of the Ottoman Empire until the Russian-Georgian army liberated the region in 1828. Most of the region was uninhabited after several wars, and Tsarist Russia settled various ethnic groups, mainly Armenians. 

The region, along with other parts of Georgia, remained under the Russian Empire until 1918.

Following Georgia's independence in 1918, the Turks attempted to conquer former Ottoman territories, including Meskheti, and were partially successful, but after Georgia was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1921, the borders between the Soviet Union and Turkey were officially drawn in the Treaty of Kars. According to the treaty, part of the historical territory of Meskheti remained on the Turkish side and the other part was given to Georgia.

Because Meskheti is on the border with Turkey, the Soviets stationed large troops along the border and it was only possible to enter the area with permission.

In 1995, shortly after Georgia's independence, the Georgian president issued a decree merging the historical regions of Samtskhe and Javakheti into one administrative region, creating a new administrative unit called "Samtskhe-Javakheti".

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